The shallow-water equations are derived from equations of conservation of mass and conservation of linear momentum (the Navier–Stokes equations), which hold even when the …

Alternatively, we can assume a wave-like, periodic, dependence in time: In this case, if we set , we have reverted to the geostrophic equations above. Thus a geostrophic current can be …

Derivation When the fluid is rotating, gravity waves with a long enough wavelength (discussed below) will also be affected by rotational forces. The linearized, shallow-water equations with a …

The Camassa–Holm equation can be written as the system of equations: [2] with p the (dimensionless) pressure or surface elevation. This shows that the Camassa–Holm equation is …

The waves propagate over an elliptic-shaped underwater shoal on a plane beach. This example combines several effects of waves and shallow water, including refraction, diffraction, shoaling …

Furthermore, a constant Coriolis parameter is assumed ("f-plane approximation"). The first and the second equation of the shallow water equations are respectively called the zonal and …

When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. [1] The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer …

In fluid dynamics, Green's law, named for 19th-century British mathematician George Green, is a conservation law describing the evolution of non-breaking, surface gravity waves propagating …